Laos. Laos has an amazing duality to it. An old world city full of rural life dotted with a few cities. Some areas have paved roads. I loved the markets in Luang Prabang I really enjoyed sitting on the blankets with the hillstribe people gently passing the calculators back and forth til we found a “lucky number” for them and myself. The had lil wicker baskets close to the ground to sit upon and admire goods and haggle. Once you made your purchase they’d thwack every pile of goods on their blanket with the
Money blessing it for good luck and more money to come. A few times I “make show” with my hula hoops for a better deal-specifically if it was something I really wanted and just wanted a fair price. You have to really be on your game though here, their money is thoroughly confusing and 1000 Kip looks suspiciously like the 10000 Kip and people will try to rip you off every chance they get. Even at the exchange I busted the girl for shorting me 18,000 Kip but of course this was my last transaction in town so lord knows how many times this happened to me before then and went unnoticed. Smile pretty, watch your back.

I actually have been trying to leave Laos for 3 days but their joke that Laos-PDR (peoples democratic republic-which is communist-go figure) stands for “please don’t rush” has really rang true. Lol. I could have stayed in Luang Prabang til the end of the week for the next opportunity to get to Cambodia -or I could take a night bus to Vientiene and leave for Cambodia in the morning-so I took that option. It’s interesting how segregated they keep the tourists. When my tuk-tuk picked me up to take me to the bus station they drove down this dirt road I hadn’t noticed before and suddenly an entirely new city emerged before my eyes with food markets galore and shops and surely at a third of the cost. They double booked my bus and I think I only got a seat because the ticket man thought I was pretty. He kept looking at me, at my ticket, and then at the list, only to find that my seat number was taken and my name no where to be found-he scratched something out and put my name in it’s place. Later he boarded the bus for an opportunity to tell me how beautiful i was. The other people on my tuk-tuk announced they had been shafted and had to take another bus along with about 30 other people. Perhaps they are the ones that lucked out though- as our VIP bus, whose luggage compartment harbored everything from bags to motorcycles to chickens crowing–all morning from underneath us echoing through the bus lolololol. It was a long night through twisted jagged and vertically bursting mountain ranges on this small road illuminated by the barely waning full moon in this very large double decker bus sliding backwards down hills (seriously) and chugalugging the whole way. At one point I woke up and the bus was stopped-I quickly fell back asleep, I awoke perhaps an hour and a half later and we were still stopped-I thought perhaps the driver was tired, perhaps he needed a nap-but everyone with the bus company was awake and I could here the familiar sound of tools being tossed on the ground–we had broken down.
But the Laos man had something going for him, shoulder deep in engine grease he worked his magic and within another hour the bus started up and we continued on our way- our 9 hour bus ride turned into a 14 hour busride but in the end I made it to Vientiene safe and sound.

By tomorrow this time I will ideally by in Siem Reap and ready to take in the astounding sight of Angkor Wat and Angkor Tom.

I still find evolution a bit of a conundrum in this part of the world. There is something so priceless in these villages untouched by industrialism – you want them to remain untainted – but at the same time you want more for the people. Coming from somewhere where running water and electricity is standard along with paved roads and education- but at what cost are these elements applied. And what is it about the human condition that makes all of us enter somewhere new and want to make it into something else. We want to make everything “better” but who says our way is truly a better way? From Alexander the great to hitler to Obama to your own brothers and sisters-who’s call is better than anyone elses. What is it inside us that makes us want to conquer and change the very things we came to see. This concept has been reeling through my mind every step of the way as I try to consciously tred lightly and take everything in for what it’s worth rather than having expectations and only seeing what I want to see or forcing things into a mold of what I prefer.

I really enjoy that through all if SE Asia rarely will a guest house or hotel take reservations. They don’t ask you for how long you ll stay, you just turn-up, find an open room, and stay until your done-I learned this fresh off the plane as Telah and I stayed an extra night in Bangkok and I was trying to pay for an extra night–the people at the desk were like “No-the room
Is yours til you no longer stay.” I can’t imagine America functioning like that- we all book our rooms months in advance and plan out every single detail all the time-that’s how our system works. I have thoroughly enjoyed the low key pace and non obligatory day-to-day around here. So nice! Some places will take same day reservations -if they have a phone you can call and check. However-its kind of nicer to see what you ae getting roped into.

I’ve spent the last few days frolicking in this epic faerie mermaid waterfall here in Luang Prabang -so worth it!! Super refreshing and so beautiful!!
It’s about an hour from town and through the most amazing farm lands mountains and fields.

The goods here are all unique and hand crafted-they definitely have their own Laos flavor including lots of huge silver chest pieces and headpieces from the hilltribes.

Right now I’m staying in this big old Laos house run by two Laos families. The floors are a single layer of wood and the roof is thatched bamboo. I really enjoy thinking about all the families that have occupied this space over time. Laos culture is very communal, usually 10-15 people to a place and they share everything- all meals are communal water is communal- everything. They are a very sharing people.

Okay tonight I take a night bus to Vientiene-the capitol of Laos.

Til next time!

Driving motor bikes through mountainous farm lands getting passed by pick up trucks overflowing with hills tribe people, trekking caverns in bamboo forests to the cool side of the cliffs where the water, albeit low in the peak of dry season, still remarkably drops about 40 ft into a clear pool surrounded by old caves.


As we drive back to the roadway many kittens, puppies, and chickens dart across the road and lazily sprawl in the sunshine. Then we saw baby water buffalo!! So cute!! And the older ones were being herded down the road–their wooden bells clacking as they sway side to side with each step–so sweet! One sat calmly on the side of the road chewing grass with a big white egret like bird sitting on his head! We laughed so loud. Then down the road and up and over to the Pai Canyon a striking view and some treacherous climbing options. It was a long late night following our sunset moped ride that lent to fire hooping in the street in front of a rasta bar which paid for our drinks all night long. Regardless, I wrestled myself from sleeping in too late so that I could enjoy the hot springs in the morning time while it’s still cool out here in the mountainside** So Telah and I cruised up the hill to the steaming and bubbling natural mineral hot springs!! Great way to spend the morning for sure then we went up to the Pai Jungle Farm and played with 9 kittens and had the best damn coffee, brewed by the cup, we’ve had the whole trip. Now time for relaxing and reflecting and taking it all in from
the hammock at the riverside on the porch of our bungalow.

So a week has gone by of sunrise after sunset after sunrise. The thai people are a fairly late night people. They are hard working people. The are up late running the pharmacy, running the foot massage shop, running the night market, running the food stands. They are up later, they open shop later, each day seems to laxidaisically ease into one another.

There is a basic trust. An understanding. At night, there are no doors to the market, there are no shutters on their shops. . . they tie the blanket over their table, they cover their goods, but there are few locks here–and the ones you do find are quite janky from being old and not often replaced. They tie up their shops. . . could you imagine a full market place in nyc the length of several city blocks. .  with no walls, no windows, no locks and stuffed full of goods. . . do you really think it could preservere . . . for centuries? It definitely makes me think.

Humans are human but Humanity varies greatly.

Many people here work 7 days a week from 10 am to midnight, 1, 2. . . never complaining, never moving too fast, but smiling all the way. . . and we in america think we work long and too much. . . i see the same people working all day every day, selling their vegetables, selling their herbs, their scarves, their coconuts. . .everyone is selling something. So many markets. Markets are a way of life here in Thailand and especially here in Chiang Mai. You have the night market and bizarre. . . which is every night, then you have the day markets. .. which are seve

ral buildings, with several stories, for several blocks full of full on markets every day. Then you have the Saturday walking street market. . . and then you have the Sunday walking street market. There is no shortage of things being sold-expensive or cheap, haggled or not, Chiang Mai is a full on market place almost every hour of the day. Its a way of life. Everyone has their job to man the table, wash the goods, cook the fish, grab the trash, massage the feet, paint the wall. . . everyone and every thing no matter age, race, or color seemsto have something important to do and that–for the most part— they enjoy doing. People revel here in the day-to-day. It seems there could never be too much.

Chiang Mai is an old city with an old heart. Roads that link together through hour glass shaped bricks, the old city surrounded by a moat and the wall they built to fend off burma in the 12th century sits humbly around the city like a old shawl. Mopeds buzz up and down the streets 3,4, and 5 people deep. .. sometimes thier dog too. The animals roam freely and are loved by all. To cross the street you have to just go for it. . .its all a give and take, its all a constant friendly negotiation. . .the ebb and flow of a timeless place.

There are all the elements present in our everyday lives here. They cook on the fire right on the streets, the earth is our floors, the mountains, the manicured and blossoming trees, the water is in the moat and seeping through the bathroom walls. . . the bathrooms are so watery. . . so different than home. The shower and the toilet all in one place with a bucket to clear the bowl rather than a flush. . .in some places we went there were the most beautiful outdoor/open air bathrooms with vines hanging down from the ceilings and growingdown the walls. And Air.the air is in yourface, the air blows the plumeria blossoms down from the trees, cause the bouganvillas to flow brightly back andforth, to blow the mosquitos away from your flesh.

Thailand is a spiritual place laden in ritual, in buddhism, in principle, in conservative dress, in mountains, and incense, and prayers.A place where you walk in a circle three timesto set your intentions and always take off your shoes every time you cross a doorstep.

Whimsical with classic charm Chiang Mai is bustling with community — studious immigrants, pagent queens, floral creativity–Bustling with its culture, an asian melting pot swirling at your feet.

In the morning we move forth to our next destination a few hours north: Pai. A lazy town with waterfalls and faeries and maybe some thai hippie communes too*

xo -=ali*

Wow what a journey thus far! Currently writing you all from the garden of my guest house (which is rad) in Chiang Mai. Chiang Mai is so super lovely –it makes me realize that even after drifting away for weeks on a tropical paradise island –that I’m truly a city girl at heart. Mopeds, markets and a lil city grit just does something for me that idyllic scenery and relaxation doesn’t tap into. A lil
Vivacity that can only be found in places like this. The shopping is cheap, the haggling is an art, and every nook and cranny is filled with Buddha or religious artifact. Over 300 wats in chiang Mai alone! We went to Wat That Doi Suthep last night–this huge wat on the very top of this ginormous mountain. You can tell if a building was originally created to be a wat by the stairs–if the stairs have a dragon a body leading all the way up each side then this was this buildings original design intention.

This wat had the most beautiful shrines within it’s walls that I have seen so far–and I’ve finally been in enough temples that I don’t feel like a bumbling idiot with each step I make. There is quite a bit of ediquite and ritual that goes into Buddhism -and it gets extra tricky when you don’t even know when you are being offensive. Like-you can’t be taller than the monk, you can’t hand anything directly to the monk, your feet must never point toward Buddha or the monk-sit in mermaid pose, etc etc etc. I went to this monk chat and meditation session the other night and it was really rewarding to meditate in the Wat-to use it for it’s intention rather than tourism–it’s was funny cause there was sooooo much noise-construction sounding even though it was late at night it went on and on and on–at tines it was even hard to make out what the monk was saying it was so loud. During the actual
Meditation the noises all fell away. Afterwards I asked the monk what was making that sound and it was actually all the other monks hammering out the the metal etchings/relief-like plaques that they were creating based on their current teachings/lessons. 😉

I’m glad I went to this talk as it really helped me learn more about the principles of Buddhism and totally blew my mind and eyes open to the way of life of the people all around me. People stop you on the street and talk about their life, their meaning, their trials and tribulations, the impermanence, about doing good, not doing bad, and purifying the mind. Had I not gone to that talk it would have taken me a lil longer to crack the understanding that these people were all coming from the same place, from the same fundamental
Teachings, and applying them
Consciously to every part of their life. People not only have awareness and intention with their actions–but they are also analyzing and reappropriating their energy to
Continue to apply their Buddhist ideals. It’s all quite beautiful and truly all around us here.

I had a really fun vegan Thai cooking course today. I learned how to make 10 different dishes (mango sticky rice!!!, curries, soups, summer rolls, papaya salad droooool) and even got to go with to the market to pick up all the ingredients. It was called May Kaidee’s Cooking school and she was so nice and fun and afterwards I was asking her about Thai dance classes -cause they have not been so easy to find and she was like “No I just show you now!” And right there and then started dancing and singing so beautiful and teaching me hand motions and turning us in giggling circles–it was so lovely that I almost wanted to cry.

This weekend here in Chiang Mai just happens to be the Flower Festival!! You know I love a good parade and if you ve ever walked around with me you may also know that I ADORE flowers–so stay tuned for some inside shots of thus cultural bonanza.